Hair by Duffy for Maison Margiela Spring 2024 Couture. Image/ Vogue Runway

Robert Wun

Fantasy and horror were the inspiration behind Robert Wun's second couture collection. Taking inspiration from his favourite films we saw a demonstration in a mastery of draping beneath dripping crystal blood splatters and raindrops.

Models wore beaded headpieces, exaggerated cat-eye glasses or surrealistic head ornaments. For the hair that wasn't covered, we could appreciate the very sleek wet look reminiscent of the 1920s.

Makeup was complimented by a dewy, almost flushed base with each model rocking an individual look. From coral/pink-toned lips to vivid blue hues, black liner or bedazzled bleeding hearts. Brows were brushed and eyes had a subtle gloss or full black liner smudge.


Hair by Ali Pirzadeh
Makeup by Valentina Li

Schiaparelli


A surrealist sci-fi Western spring haute couture collection. Bringing a robot baby, silver 3D spine, Western belt buckles, nostalgic tech and some intricate embroidery. Sounds like a lot doesn't it? But within the surrealism and sculpture was some fashion fantasy that could be fun to wear.

Hair was a minimal slick-back look, pulled back into chic ballerina buns. Makeup was kept fresh and glowing with effervescent golden highlights. Clean eyes and lips were enhanced by the brow - or lack thereof. I'm happy to see the bleached brow trend isn't going anywhere in a hurry.

Hair by Guido Palau
Makeup by Dame Pat McGrath

Maison Margiela


The show of the season. Finally, some unexpected theatrics and historical fantasies grace a couture runway. Focussing on the nighttime revellers beneath a moonlit night, it all started with Brassai’s 1920s and ’30s portraits of the night-time underbelly of Paris’s clubs and streets.

A common theme overall this Couture season was corsetry and Galliano got the memo, hips were padded, there were merkins beneath sheer lace dresses, exaggerated suits in dark drab wool, and eerie doll-like body modifications that each model brought to life.

A vast range of wigs was used to bring the vision to life. From child-like ringlets to Belle Époque hairstyles, teased up and full of drama in a multitude of colours.

As for the MAKEUP? You already know. Pencil-thin brows were seen throughout and the mesmerizing porcelain-doll-like complexion has the internet fluttering. From the sickly, moody and swampy tones to the peachy and bright. It's the glass skin effect, airbrushed to perfection using a "soon to be released" product that sets the look well above the rest.


Hair by Duffy
Makeup by Dame Pat McGrath

It's not often you see Haute pubes on the runway. One of the "three painted muses" with merkins created by Duffy and constructed by the Maison Margiela Artisnal team.

Find out about the history of the Merkin here.

Jean Paul Gaultier by Simone Rocha


Perhaps the most anticipated show of the season and it did not disappoint.

Under Simone Rocha's female gaze, we saw the provocateur JPG spirit reimagined by a sensual, feminine narrative wrapped in ribbons, bows and tulle. Instantly recognizing the tribute to well-known classics such as the cone bra, the Breton stripes and cross-laced satin corsetry.


Lived-in hair was usually tucked behind the ears with a glossy sheen and flyaways and some looks were accessorised by more hair in bows or Princess Leia-like Space buns.

Each model's complexion had a matte finish with a delicate pink blush. Scattered throughout, eyes and lips were adorned in crystal rocks for an ethereal Rocha effect that punctuated the wearer's look, reminiscent of the Irish folklore-inspired looks of the previous collections.

Hair by Holli Smith
Makeup by Thomas de Kluyver

Armani Privé


A collection of 92 looks, each portraying its own theme, taking inspiration from different cultures from East to West and the women that embody them. An abundance of flowing liquid-like fabrics, sparkling embellishments and rhinestone embroideries amidst delicate lace and billowing silk chiffons gave this collection an ultra-feminine and extravagant feel.

Aside from the wealth of red carpet-ready looks, what caught our eye was the hair and makeup.

For hair, a wet-look side fringe moment reigned supreme, sweeping heavily across each model's forehead. Some feature deconstructed braided updos and others glam embroidered lace headpieces or heavily beaded tassels twisted up to drape gracefully from the hair.

The cosmic eye makeup blended like a watercolour painting in purple, black, blue, pink and yellow. It was unfussy and joyful. A good reminder to experiment and have fun with makeup.

Hair by Roberta Bellazzi
Makeup by Hiromi Ueda

Giambattista Valli


Fresh blossoms and the soothing power of nature provoked ideas for this collection. Giambattista is known for their dramatic silhouettes and voluminous crystal-encrusted tulle gowns, and with an abundance of rustling taffeta silks, ballooned tulle, velvet and flowers, this was no exception.

The smooth, glossy hair had us take a second glance. So slick from the front but the rearview is a sight to behold. Handcrafted velvet bows and fresh flowers adorned perfectly executed, voluminous ponytails. Beautiful.

We love a feathery accessory and Giambattista beauty was all about the feather lashes, reaching the brow and beyond, while porcelain skin had an angelic glow—a dreamy base for the sculptural fabric below.

Hair by Pier Paolo Lai
Makeup by Karin Westerlund

Vicktor and Rolf


Titled Viktor & Rolf Scissorhands, the presentation was described as “couture but with a punk attitude.” Backed by a scissor-snipping soundtrack, the show was as elegant and polished as it was slashed up and deconstructed. An all-black collection featuring tulle, velvet, sequins and satin.

The sculptural updo was a work of art. Hair pulled back and secured in a sleek bun, lacquered to perfection with a mini bow to complete the look. An ultra-glam twist on the classic ballet bun.

Like a lot of faces this season, the skin was clean and clear. A subtle touch of blush glows over the cheek and an enhanced natural lip colour is applied to match. Chic.

Hair by Oliver Schawalder
Makeup by Sam Visser

Chanel


Usually, Couture removes itself from the trend circuit but this season has been a major exception. Coquettes, bows, ribbons and now balletcore have proved themselves a mainstay in the mainstream, at least for our entrance to 2024.

Evoking lightness and movement, "The Button" was a poetic pastel-hue collection that travelled inside the world of Ballet. From the colour palette to the silhouettes the collection features cascading tulle and organza, delicate pleating, beading, fringes and feathers worn over leotards and tights.

The hair was light and romantic, softly floating behind the models. The half-up style was, of course, clasped with a huge-ass bow. Bows aren't going anywhere! Shop bows here.

Chanel's soft, girly beauty featured multidimensional, shimmering pink blush and glossy lips, which is a pretty everyday look we would love to recreate at home.

Makeup by Chanel Beauty

Christian Dior


With an air of modern simplicity and a story of reinvention and innovation, Maria Grazia Chuiri explored a reinterpretation of Christian Dior’s 1950s aerodynamic silhouettes within a collection of plain cotton and moire (a fabric usually used in interior design) pieces. Bringing forward a quietly astonishing but wearable collection - for those who wear Dior of course.

Always perfection. Braids and bows were the order at Dior. Braids twisted into a low bun with the addition of a black velvet ribbon to the base. A pretty touch to an everyday look.

There was a clean base, brushed brows, sheen to the lip, but subverting expectations was a heavy black eyeliner to pull the whole look together.

Hair by Guido Palau
Makeup by Peter Philips